How to Paint: Grim Dark House Raven Pt1
A
Quick Note on Tools: – My primary paint tool is an airbrush, this is how I
quickly lay down base layers, shading and even some weathering. It’s
really good for larger models because you’re going to avoid so many of the
headaches that come along with large flat panels like brush strokes, uneven
paint, time, etc That being said, in the end you’re still going to need a brush
for all that detail work so find a good balance. My airbrush setup is as
follows:
Iwata
Eclipse HPCS -.50mm
2
Gallon Badger Compressor w/ regulator and water trap
6ft
hose
Another
water trap right before the airbrush (because I live in a humid area)
Sub-Assemblies –
Knights and larger models in general lend themselves well to sub-assemblies.
It allows you to spray paint or airbrush the larger panels while avoiding
overspray onto the ligature and support structures of the knight. For
this build I assembled the chassis, legs (sans feet) and arms but left all of
the plates off to paint independently.
Paint!
Mechanicus
Metal – Your standard weathered metal, I use the recipe
frequently corroded and grimy metal.
1. We’re
going for a darker gun metal color. You could use boltgun out of a can or
any darker gunmetal metal as the base-coat. In this case I used Vallejo
Metal Color, Gun Metal. Apply over the primed black ligature of the
knight. Its not required to hit every nook and cranny, leaving some black
showing through can add a different texture and some points of interest.
Get these later with the dry brushing.
2. Next
drybrush a dark gold or tinbits randomly over the model to break up the solid
silver
3. Paint
various bobbles around the armor with copper or tinbits
4. Liberally
apply 50/50 nuln oil and aggrax earthshade over the metal portions and let dry
5. Using
Necron Compound or RubnBuff Pewter dry brush the entire model lightly
6. Paint
wiring red, yellow or blue
7. Paint
hoses and exterior wiring black and highlight w/ grey drybrush
House
Raven Red – I opted to mute the bright red tones that are depicted
in the box art and the old Knights codex that and go with a more crimson scheme
that is going to be darker and beat up. On the armor plates start w/
black primer.
1. Build
up from black w/ Vallejo Crimson, you’re not looking to cover the entire piece,
leave some of the black showing in the shadows and toward the lower edges of
the plate.
2. Apply
highlights on the Vallejo Crimson areas w/ Vallejo Bloody Red, you’re looking
for simple spot highlights
3. Let
your paint cure. You’re going to be applying stencils with tape
House
Raven Hazard Stripes
*Tape
off areas that you want to apply Hazard Stripe to. Cover the red areas
you want to retain w/ masking tape (stick tape to your shirt a couple times to
remove some of the adhesive quality so you’re not pulling paint off the models
you’ve just painted).
1. On
the half shoulder pad for instance tape half of it off vertically. Apply
light grey or white primer/paint on the portion you left unmasked
2. Apply
Tamiya flat yellow over the primer. You could also use Averland sunset or
any other typical yellow color that covers well
3. Add
warmth to the yellow by going over it w/ Vallejo Golden Yellow, focus on the
middle and lower portions of the plate
4. Finally
add a glaze of orange near the very bottom of the shoulder pad w/ Flame Orange
Ink to emulate the beginnings of rust and corrosion.
5. Let
dry thoroughly, add strips of Tamiya masking tape or masking tape that you’ve
cut to width in a hazard stripe pattern. Make sure that if you’re doing
hazard stripes that the pattern is roughly 45 degrees to the perpendicular
plane of the model. The high point of the stripe should come from the
center of the model in a chevron pattern. I applied hazard stripes to the
cod piece and the shoulder epaulets
**ON
ALL THE ARMOR PLATE PAINT THE TRIM w/ BOLTGUN or GUNMETAL**
**HIGHLIGHT ARMOR PLATE TRIM WITH SILVER BY EDGING OR CAREFULLY DRYBRUSHING **
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